WineInk: Matt Dees’ Long Dance

WineInk: Matt Dees’ Long Dance

When winemaker Matt Dees talks about the grapes on the winery properties he tends, you might think he is talking about raising children: “Over the last 20 years, the vines have gone from infants to toddlers to adolescents to kind of … well, young adults and maturity.” To make great wine, Dees, who is in charge of two exceptional wine properties, The Hilt and JONATA, on the Central California coast, in the broader Santa Barbara Appellation, says …