As is immediately apparent from its dramatic black curtains, barrel-backed chairs upholstered in green velvet and parametric LED chandelier, Black Pearl in Ponte Vedra Beach is meant to feel very much of the moment. In other words, the three-month-old dining room shouldn’t make you think of JFK. But on a recent visit, it wasn’t just the servers incongruously attired in starched white shirts and black bow ties that brought the long-ago president …
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