If Portland was a game of Monopoly, Earl Ninsom clearly has control of the board. The Bangkok-born Ninsom has a sprawling empire of Thai restaurants across most quadrants, each offering specialities perfected. No one can touch the roti at Hat Yai, nor the brisket curry at Eem, or the sumptuous prix fixe experience at Langbaan. Earlier this year, Ninsom, along with collaborator Eric Nelson, set up a new game piece on one of the city’s most stori…