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Milan designers go lighter in silhouette, if not materials, for next summer
Designers kept suits central but softened construction and added ventilation as economic uncertainty and hotter temperatures pushed menswear toward lighter, more relaxed looks.
Milan Fashion Week closed on Monday, with designers embracing lighter tailoring and sartorial ventilation for the Spring-Summer 2027 season amid economic uncertainty and geopolitical tensions.
Designers softened construction and opened necklines to help the well-dressed man survive rising heat, with dress shirts left unbuttoned or removed entirely.
Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined familiar clothes through proportion and fabrication, featuring slim five-pocket pants matched with cropped jackets that functioned as shirts.
Japanese designer Shinya Kozuka made his Milan debut with summery sheer coats, while Copenhagen-based Martin Quad and Domenico Orefice showcased collections with unusual tailoring and rich textiles.
While most embraced restraint, Dolce and Gabbana leaned into maximalism with beaded accents and microshorts, and Philipp Plein presented crystal-encrusted denim requiring days of handwork.