Picture this: you are standing in a village in Leh in February. Snow is everywhere — on the rooftops, packed into the mountain slopes, gleaming off every surface for as far as you can see. You are, to every outward appearance, surrounded by water. And yet, come June, your fields will be dry. This is the maddening reality of life in Ladakh, one of the highest, coldest, and driest inhabited places on earth. It is a land that receives more snow tha…
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