If haleem defines Ramzan in Hyderabad, dum-ke-roat heralds the arrival of Muharram. The moment the crescent indicating the month of mourning is sighted, bakeries across Hyderabad begin preparing one of the city’s most cherished seasonal delicacies. Crunchy, sweet and shared by all, dum-ke-roat has become an inseparable part of Muharram in Hyderabad’s Old City and beyond. Like haleem, dum-ke-roat has no religion. Though it is closely associated w…