It’s the first week of August when I visit “Sheffield by the sea” — or, to use the name you’d find on a map, the town of Sidmouth in Devon. The pebbled beach is teeming with young families eating ice cream, casting long shadows on the waves. The air is still sweltering, but there’s a cool breeze that reminds me autumn is on its way. In the distance, I can hear the sound of a cellist rehearsing, barely perceptible over the percussion accompanimen…
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