As water quality steadily improves, a growing number of major cities are rediscovering their rivers not merely as scenic backdrops but as destinations for leisure and swimming. In Budapest, bathing in the Danube was banned in 1973, yet today three designated river beaches are once again in operation. The question now is whether the historic bathing spots—once found in front of Parliament, along the grand Pest embankments, or beneath Gellért Hill…